Lots of things are fun to make in 1/144, using clever fixes.
You can make books in different ways. You can cut pieces of mat board or construction paper into the right sizes and line them up on a shelf. You can buy, and then paint, laser cut book inserts (made for shelves) that SDK Miniatures and others supply. You can take a class with Miniature Bookbinder and IGMA Artisan Tine Krijnen, who teaches you how to make wonderful twelfth scale books, but will also give you tips on (and sometimes teaches) how to make tiny leather covered books, with real pages, in 1/144.
For the miniature workshop I taught in 2019 at the Guild Show, I used a variant of Tine’s method to make modern, inexpensive books that don’t open (or have individual pages). These will be very tiny, so you won’t be able to read the covers easily! Some will look good, some will not. If you have a bunch, you can pick and choose.
You will need to search your personal library and also the internet (being mindful of copyright considerations) for images of book jackets and print them on thin paper. You will also need:
- Watercolor paper or card stock that is about the thickness of a 1/144 book (less than 1/32” thick, i.e., less than about 4” in R.L.)
- Thin white glue (such as Elmer’s or a PH-neutral book binders adhesive)
- Lighter weight printer paper, preferably acid free for more longevity for printing covers on
- Construction or colored paper, for alternative book covers
- A thin (in terms of thickness, not width) metal ruler for folding the paper to create book spines
Step 1. Create a Word File
Put together a digital collection of dust jacket images. Be sure to use those that have the back and front cover (they may also have the material on the flap—you will cut this off later (sorry, authors!).
Insert the images into a MSWord document. Initially, size them individually so they are about the size of a book in twelfth scale. E.g., size them all so they are 1” tall, or 1” wide.
Select them as a group, then copy and paste them all. Size the copied files so they are about ¾” tall. Repeat this process a few times, making them different sizes, height and width, so you have a variety of books.
When you are done, you should have about 30 to 50 book jackets, of different styles and sizes.
Change the page layout to “columns” and choose 4 columns. Also choose “centered” for the layout, so all the books will line up with the spines one above the other. Make sure there is a carriage return (Oops! Showing my age), or a “paragraph mark” (enter) after each book. This will help to ensure that the images line up one above the other, and the center spines of the books align.
Select all the images, then copy and paste repeatedly until you have filled up 16 pages of your document with books. This is what a sample page looks like.
Step 2. Size and Print
Each printer will be different, and different versions of word operate differently, so you will have to hunt around to find the features you want in your print settings and the options for your printer.
- Choose 16 pages per sheet. This will print all of your pages on one sheet. Each picture will be about the quarter of its current size; so if you want 1:48 scale, you can stop now.
- Look at how your printed sheet looks, and the height of most of the books. Depending on whether these are coffee table books, hardcovers, or softcovers, you may want the books to be different sizes. In general, a good rule of thumb is that you want a large number of the books to be about 2 mm (or about 3/32”) tall when printed. This would be relatively tall (about 1 foot in R.L.) but then you want them to be visible in 1:144! If you want smaller books that are better to scale, they should be shorter than this.
- To get to the right size, you will have to reduce them further. Find the feature for your printer that reduces the printed page (it might be called “zoom”). I reduced mine to 50 % of its size. In other words, when I printed my page at 16 pages / sheet, my books initially came out to about 6/32” tall. I want them to be half of that, or 3/32” tall, so I printed at 50% (still at 16 pages/sheet).
Be sure to seal the printed paper with Krylon or Plaid matte or glossy sealer, depending on your preferences.
Step 3. Make the Book Strips
Find different thicknesses of cardstock or watercolor paper in your stash, so you can make books of different thickness. From each type of cardstock, cut a few strips that are 2″ to 3” long (at least as long as your columns are when printed at the appropriate size) and about ¼” to ½” wide (for ease of handling).
Cut one of your printed columns. Mark the center of the spine of the books, at the top and bottom edges of the paper column with a pencil, and then cut through a little with your knife. Flip over and use the knife mark to align a ruler, and then score along the ruler with the back of your craft knife. Fold the paper up along the ruler, tight to the side of the ruler; push the edge of the ruler hard onto your table or mat, to create the book spine.
If you have colored paper you like for the book covers, you can also cut a few strips that are about the width and length of the book columns and take the same steps to fold the paper.
[If you want to be really fussy, you can move the line (before scoring) over by an amount that is equal to the thickness of your ruler or piece of card stock, so the spine is truly centered on the book cover. But … most likely no one will know but you!]
Spread some white glue—preferably a bookbinders glue—lightly along the long edge and the sides of your cardstock strips (you do not need to go the full width). Push the edge of the card stock into the fold of your printed column. Press down—the edge of the card stock will be the spine of your book. Then press flat on each side.
Put a weight on the glued strip to keep it flat. Let dry.
Step 4. Cut Out Your Books
When your books are dry, cut the strip horizontally between each book. Then trim each book individually to width.
You will have lots of books. Choose the ones you like and glue in place!